Wednesday, February 27, 2013

Xinnian Quaile (Happy New Year)


I am constantly experiencing “firsts” here. The most recent was a double whammy. It was my first Chinese New Year as well as my first visitor in China. My best friend contacted me a couple months and asked me when the best time to visit me would be. Chinese New Year is the most celebrated national holiday in China and longest vacation time of the year. This is when most foreigners book a trip to Thailand or some warm tropical place to escape the cold and China in general. I had suggested to Elizabeth that we meet in a place like Thailand during the Chinese New Year, but she being the awesome friend that she is wanted to come to China and see what my life is like here. As amazing as an escape from China would have been I am quite happy she was able to get a little taste of China, because honestly it is so hard to describe what life is like here, you really just have to see for yourself. I wasjust having lunch with friends and we were saying how you really cant complain about China to anyone in the US… they just can’t understand. Where as anyone here will give you that sympathy nod and head shake to reassure you that you’re not alone.


Elizabeth arrived in Shanghai on a Tuesday night. I had taken a shuttle from Hangzhou straight to the airport.  We got on the subway to make our way downtown. I blame the excitement of seeing/catching up with an old friend, but we missed our subway transfer and the metro started heading back to the airport. No big deal we thought, just a detour. When we got back to the airport the lights in the subway went out and we were asked to get off. That had been the last subway of he evening. Of course! We found the buses and were able to find the bus that would take us close to where we were staying. I feel like that was the best introduction to my life in China that I could have given her; getting lost and overcoming obstacles.

We spent four days in Shanghai, which I can now officially say is my favorite city in China. We stayed with my good friend Mecah and her boyfriend Eduardo. Eduardo was our tour guide and helped show us some really great places. We did a bit of exploring on our own as well. Shanghai just has so much to offer. We had a bit of snow one day, which was so fun. On our last night we went out to an authentic all you can eat and drink Teppanyaki restaurant with Mecah and Eduardo. We flew from Shanghai to Beijing on New Years Eve.

Another reason a lot of foreigners leave China during the holiday is because CNY creates the largest annual migration anywhere in the world. It is custom to celebrate the New Year with your family in your hometown. This makes for a lot of Chinese traveling by train and bus. Many had warned me that traveling this time of year was a bad idea. I was so apprehensive that Liz and I would be stuck in a train station lost, trampled, and crying. I warned Liz and told her that I would keep a flask on hand at all times in case the situation was too overwhelming. I am no longer trusting anything anyone ever tells me. All of our travels went off without a hitch (well except for the missed flight, that was our fault!)

We arrived in Beijing around 9pm. We went straight to our hostel and dropped of our bags then went out to explore the area surrounding our hostel. My coworker had mentioned this quaint little bar area close to the hotel. We it found just as we were about to give up and head back to the hostel (it was 20degrees and we’re from southern California… it’s just not our thang). I’m so happy we toughed it out! The bars and restaurants were all surrounding this small lake that was frozen and used as an ice skating rink in the winter. This was the absolute best place to be. I have to explain one thing about China and Chinese New Year (which from now on will be referred to as CNY, keep up) first. You will never hear or see more fireworks in your life than you will witness in China during CNY. The Chinese invented gunpowder, so maybe that is why they love fireworks so much. Regardless, there are also absolutely no restrictions when it comes to fireworks. And I’m not talking about the amateur stuff you used to light in you street on the fourth of July as a kid; I’m talking about Disneyland fireworks. It is almost impossible for me to describe the number of fireworks going off throughout the night, and especially from 11:30 to 12:30, too many as a matter of fact. At one point they were being set off so close to us that we were hiding behind a trash can; one misfire and you’re toast. Something else to think about; fireworks are often set off in a very safe and regulated field with precaution by professionals. These were all being set off in a crowded street with tons of trees, light posts, and cable wires. There had to have been thousands of fingerless Chinese at the emergency room…

Anyways… unbelievable evening. The following day was New Years day, which means most families will stay in the house and eat and watch TV. The concierge at the hostel repeatedly told us that everything would be closed for the next few days. “It’s New Years” he told us. Oh really? Thanks for nothing Jerry. Another example as to why I don't believe anything anyone ever tells me. Especially Chinese people; they do this annoying thing where they give you an answer even if they don't know the correct answer. Instead of saying “I don't know” they’ll just say, “yeah take a left.” NO! Wrong it’s a right. Don't lead me in the wrong direction just because you don't want to admit you don't know. We proved Jerry wrong. There was a lot open on New Years day. The following day we went to The Great Wall of China even though Jerry said it was closed. We’re so lucky too because going without a tour set up by a hotel is so difficult! We were the only foreigners on the bus; it was the equivalent of getting there he way the locals would. There was luckily a man on the bus who spoke a little English and told us to follow him. I wish I remembered his name! It was something along the lines of Rotor. The Great Wall as you can guess was pretty great. We got a Chinese woman to take pictures of us doing handstands. I felt pretty satisfied with the experience. We saw everything we needed to see there, and honestly I don't think I’ll go back. The city itself wasn't that impressive. Maybe it’s a little more enjoyable in the spring, but in the winter; cold and gray. We missed our flight out of Beijing by 10 minutes. Our fault, we should have allotted more time to get to the airport. Also, we had found the fake market… it’s hard to turn your back on tons of cheap crap you don't need! Because I had bought the tickets online at a discounted price we could not transfer the tickets or get a refund. So we paid to get on the next flight. The only upside of missing the flight was we were upgraded to first class.

We had two days in Hangzhou. The first day was a total lazy day, actually they both were. We just walked around the city a little, ate out, and watched movies in bed. It was great. On Friday we went to Mount Huangshan with my friend Margaret. Mount Huangshan is on of the most famous mountains in China. Apparently it is the inspiration behind Avatar. This was another “Great Wall” situation that is just boggling. It’s a huge tourist attraction and rather well known in China, however getting there is so confusing! If it weren’t for Margaret we would not have gotten there. It was a four-hour bus ride then another bus transfer to the mountain. It took us four hours to hike to our hotel. We got to the top just in time for the sunset. We dropped off our backpacks in our room then got dinner. We were like zombies at the dinner table: so physically exhausted. We woke up at five to watch the sunrise, and then took the cable car to the bottom of he mountain. It was so beautiful and such a great experience. The following day I went back to work and Elizabeth went back to the US. I’m so lucky to have such an amazing friend that would travel half way across the world to spend time with me (seeing China, meh… visiting Carrie, hell yes!)

 I am now accepting applications for my next visitor.

Monday, February 4, 2013

ni hao


I know, this took way too long! Sorry. Well, I am no longer a tourist in China. It’s official I have a category Z Chinese Visa (aka a working Visa). Pretty exciting. What’s even more exciting is that I had to fly to Hong Kong to get it. You must leave Mainland China to change your Visa category. My days off are Monday and Thursday, so my assistant just told me to take Monday to Friday to get everything taken care of. The flight to Hong Kong is about two hours and found a super cheap airline! From the airport I took the Airport Express (one of Hong Kong’s subway lines) to the Downtown/Central station of Hong Kong and was greeted by an old friend from High School. Katie and her fiancĂ© have been living in Hong Kong for a couple of years now. Not only was it amazing to spend time with Katie and Kevin, but also to have two locals showing me around. Unfortunately I was there during the workweek, and they had to work. I guess I shouldn't say “unfortunately” I’m pretty happy they both have careers and are successful members of society.

I can only comparing my arrival to Hong Kong to arriving in Hawaii form the coldest, dumpiest, most miserable town in the Midwest. Hong Kong felt like paradise. Not that Hangzhou is a miserable hick town, but it is Mainland China. China can be very wearing. I was talking to my friend Mecah this morning; she just got back to Shanghai from Thailand. She said the people and life style in Thailand was so wonderful! And once she was back and at baggage claim she was getting bumped into and knocked around by Chinese people. Welcome back. Living here can make you so curt. I’m continually getting shoulder checked, and have no problem checking people right back, even if she’s 83. I miss strangers exchanging smiles… go smile at a stranger after you read this. It really means a lot.



Anyways… Hong Kong is nothing like Mainland China. In fact from now on, if you meet somebody that says they live in China, only to find out they live in Hong Kong you point a finger in their face and say “LIAR.” There is no need to speak Chinese when in Hong Kong. Speaking with a British accent would probably be more appropriate. It was so nice to have every label and menu in English. Oh my gosh, and to see a health food store! Now I miss Whole Foods like crazy, I really took them for granted.
Back to Katie and Kevin having to work during the week; It was totally fine by me. The first two days I had to go to the visa office in the morning. I would then spend the next few hours being a total tourist. Then back to their apartment to get ready for the evening. Every night Katie and Kevin had something planned. I men no concert tickets or anything, but they made a point to take me to a different part of town for dinner each night. Kevin even let Katie and I have a girl’s night one of the evenings. I miss having friends who already know everything about you! Not having to stop your story every few minutes to give a back-story on one of the characters. Katie already knows all the characters in my life! It was so much fun and a really enjoyable trip!


I got back to Hangzhou Friday morning and enjoyed the free day of no work (the school didn't need to know what time I got home; they said I could take Monday to Friday!). Saturday we threw a surprise party for a good friend. It totally worked; she was surprised.

I think I feel busier than I had been in the beginning because I am going to the gym more! I bought a membership and have been getting up every morning at 7:145. For the last 5 years my work schedule has created an unstable sleep schedule. When I was at Starbucks I was getting to work at 5am, and at my last job I was leaving work at 3am. Needles to say, I haven’t had a stable sleep pattern in years, and “they” say it is really important to have a consistent sleep schedule. And I always trust “they,” haven’t been let down once. I've also been planning the details for my best friends visit to China! Elizabeth will arrive in Shanghai tomorrow night. We've planned an awesome trip during Chinese New Year. It will be so great to travel and see some amazing places, but it will be just as great to just sit in and chat over a glass of wine for the evening. I miss that.